Lights, Horses, and Sherry: Córdoba Begins Final Countdown to the May Fair

The 'Portada' Rises at El Arenal

As the petals begin to fall from the city's patios, Córdoba is rapidly shifting gears. Construction crews and decorators are working around the clock at the El Arenal fairgrounds to prepare for the Feria de Nuestra Señora de la Salud, the grand finale of the city's festive month. The iconic 'Portada'—the massive temporary gateway that serves as the fair's entrance—is nearing completion, designed this year to pay tribute to the city's Mudéjar heritage.

The fair, which officially kicks off at midnight this coming Saturday with the traditional 'Alumbrado' (the switching on of thousands of lightbulbs), is expected to draw hundreds of thousands of visitors. Unlike the more exclusive Seville Fair, Córdoba is famous for its 'Casetas' (marquee tents) being largely open to the general public, making it a favourite for expats and international tourists who want to experience authentic Andalusian culture without needing a private invitation.

What to Expect in 2024

The municipal government has confirmed that over 80 casetas will be active this year. Each offers a mix of traditional gastronomy—think 'salmorejo cordobés', 'flamenquín', and chilled 'rebujito'—alongside live Flamenco performances during the day and more contemporary music at night. For many residents, the afternoon 'Paseo de Caballos' is the highlight, where impeccably dressed riders and horse-drawn carriages parade through the fairgrounds in a display of traditional equestrian skill.

Advice for Expats and Newcomers

If you are planning to attend, preparation is key. The weather in Córdoba during late May often exceeds 30°C, so staying hydrated is essential. While the fair is public, dressing the part is highly encouraged. Women often wear 'trajes de gitana' (flamenco dresses), while men opt for smart-casual attire or the traditional 'traje corto'.

Transport is also a major consideration. The city provides a special 'Aucorsa' bus service that runs 24 hours a day between the city centre and the fairgrounds. Local residents are advised to leave their cars at home, as parking near El Arenal becomes nearly impossible during the week-long celebration.

Source: ABC Córdoba