La Sitarilla

The scent of sizzling garlic and toasted cumin drifts out onto the pavement, mingling with the evening chatter of locals crowded around scarred wooden bar tops. At La Sitarilla, the theatre of Andalucían tapas is performed with refreshing lack of pretence. This is a place defined by its efficiency and a menu that leans heavily into the rugged, honest flavours of the Granada hills. Plates of crisp *berenjenas con miel* and robust portions of *bacalao* arrive almost as quickly as the cold glasses of Alhambra beer. It is loud, unapologetically busy, and entirely authentic; the sort of establishment where the kitchen’s pace dictates the rhythm of your entire evening. While the interiors are modest, the soul of the city is found here. Arrive before 20:30 to secure a spot at the counter, as reservations are not accepted and the queue forms early.